Vacations in Sicily: what to see

 RAGUSA AND THE SURROUNDING AREA

 

RAGUSA IBLA, SCICLI, MODICA, and NOTO (within 35 miles radius)

 

These four small cities host a wide array of Baroque architecture, including several stunning palaces and churches. Together, they compose the Noto valley, which is an UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) Heritage site and most of their patrician buildings and churches are protected by UNESCO patronage.

The sight of the jumble of houses and churches piled on top of each other, clinging to the walls of the valley is really quite breathtaking. Although they seem Mediaeval from a distance, once you enter the town’s heart, the Baroque logic of their plan becomes more obvious.

 

 

Ragusa Ibla (i.e., the old town) was rebuilt after the great earthquake (1693) in the Baroque style, and its palazzi and churches are elegant and covered with a profusion of florid detail. The grandest building in Ibla is the cathedral, i.e., the Duomo di San Giorgio, started in 1738 and designed by the architect Rosario Gagliardi. Ibla's lanes contain many charms, from elaborately-sculpted balconies to views over the narrow valleys below town. A little tourist train (trenino) departs from Piazza Duomo and is an entertaining way of touring the principal streets. At the end of Ibla's rocky ridge is the town's public park, the Giardino Ibleo. The pride of the town, these manicured and leafy gardens have views over the surrounding valleys and are the venue of choice for promenading locals as well as tourists.

Ragusa Superiore (upper town) is the 'modern' part of town and has its own cathedral, the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista, another eighteenth-century Baroque edifice. The main street, Corso Italia, which descends towards Ibla, is lined with attractive buildings. However, there is no doubt that the best part of the upper town is the descent towards Ibla, either via flights of steps or a charming winding road, with the hilltop town spread out before the eyes in an unforgettable panorama.

 

 

Scicli (pronounced sheek-ly) is a small town hidden in a valley and the late Baroque pearl guarded by UNESCO that, in 2002, has included it in the World Heritage List.

On top of the hill where there are ruins of the old castle of the three cantons, stands the magnificent Church of St. Matthew that can be seen also from the central square Italy, overlooked by the typical eighteenth century buildings and the Cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Militia of the first half of the eighteenth century, in the Baroque style. In the same square is the Church of St. Bartholomew dating back to the first part of the fifteenth century, which was the only one to resist the earthquake of 1693. Other beauties of the city are the churches of San Giovanni Evangelista, Santa Teresa, the Convent of San Michele Arcangelo Carmime and several famous baroque palaces. Palazzo Fava was one of the first and largest Baroque palaces in the town. Notable are the late-Baroque decorations of the portal and the balconies, especially the one on the Via San Bartolomeo.The Town Hall, the Palazzo Spadaro and the Palazzo Beneventano all boast Baroque decorations.

 

 

Modica is an attractive historic town in south-eastern Sicily, one of the area's UNESCO-listed Baroque towns. Modica is particularly famous for its chocolate, and it is an appealing destination for food-lovers, making a good holiday base or day-trip destination. Modica has a remarkable number of impressive churches, including two grand Baroque cathedrals. Up a flight of steps from Corso Umberto, the Duomo di San Pietro was originally built in the fourteenth century, but destroyed by earthquakes in 1613 and again in 1693 before being rebuilt in the Baroque style in the eighteenth century. The church dominates this stretch of Corso Umberto, and its steps are ornamented with large statues of apostles and saints.

Higher up the slopes towards the old town perches the theatrical Duomo di San Giorgio, Modica Alta's (Upper Modica) cathedral and the town's most remarkable building. Like most of the area's great architecture, it was created in the local Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake destroyed the previous building. The grand façade rises up into a curved central belltower.

 

 

The city of Noto is famous for its collection of Baroque buildings too. The heart of the architectural action is along the main Corso Vittorio Emanuele which extends from the gateway of Porta Reale across three main piazzas, each with their own church. At every step of the way, honey-coloured stone buildings, elaborate facades and intricately carved balconies border the street. The Duomo, the Palazzo Ducezio, the Church of San Domenico and the Chiesa di San Carlo with its bell tower are just some of the highlights.

 

BEACHES IN THE AREA: if you look for wild, secluted, and unserviced beaches the stretches in Vendicari and Calamosche are perfect. The beach of Vendicari is located in the center of Vendicari Natural Reserve, surrounded by lush vegetation that attracts large birds particularly during the period of migration, such as flamingos. The beaches of Noto Marina (Calamosche), known as Lido di Noto, are among the most popular of recent years, due to the unspoilt beauty of its coastline and crystal clear waters.

South direction Pachino between Nero d’Avola vineyards and an intense aroma of cherry tomatoes just after the reserve appears the beach of San Lorenzo, characterized by its fine and  white sand, with crystal clear sea and seabed that slope gently toward the sea. The coastline is also well equipped with all the necessary services to make pleasant the relaxing days at sea. Certainly worth a visit is the picturesque fishing village of Marzamemi.

The beach of Isola delle correnti is located at extreme edge of Sicily where the Ionian and Mediterranean Seas meet. Due to its a perfect exposure to the winds and currents, it is an ideal place for surfers and windsurfers.

Randello is a Natural Reserve located between Punta Secca and Scoglitti. Consists of a pine forest overlooking the sea with many varieties of trees including oak, thorny, the eucalyptus, myrtle, cypress and other species of the Mediterranean. It includes a charming beach called “spiaggione”, which means “big beach”. The beach can be accessed either from the Natural Reserve entrance or from the nearby town of Punta Braccetto. Here you will find dunes, fine sand, clean sea and quiet even on Sundays in August, when all the other beaches are very crowded. Surrounding the reserve are the ruins of some cemeteries belonging to the archaeological site of Kamarina.

Marina di Ragusa, Donnalucata, Sampieri, and Pozzallo have the biggest beaches with a seafront with restaurants and bars. Particularly nice is palo bianco beach, a very long and quiet sandy beach near Donnalucata.

 

SIRACUSA (~60 miles from Ragusa)

 

 

 

Syracuse (or Siracusa) was the most important city of the ancient Magna Graecia. It defeated the mighty Athens in 413 and was home to many great Greeks, including the mathematician, physicist, engineer, inventor, and astronomer Archimedes (Yes, he was Sicilian!!!).

It is relatively easy to visit in a day, though obviously deserves rather more time. A visit can be split into two easy parts: one dedicated to the archaeological site, the other to the island of Ortygia.

TO SEE: The archaeological site, situated in the northwest of the town, which hosts a number of well-preserved Greek (and Roman) remains. The main attraction is undoubtedly the Greek theatre that dates back at least until the 5th Century BC. Just over the ridge from the theatre are the old stone quarries (latomie). 

Of big interest is the famous “Ear of Dionysius”, a 65ft-high, slender pointed arch cut into the rock face that develops inwards for about 213ft. The legend tells that it was used by the tyrant Dionysius as a prison for his bitterest enemies.

The Roman amphitheater, built in the 3rd Century BC, is also very impressive.

The heart of Syracuse is the island Ortygia. It’s difficult to get lost (it measures just 0.6 miles by 0.3 miles), but packed with over 2,500 years of history. Architectural styles vary widely, encompassing Greek and Roman remains, Mediaeval Norman buildings and a great deal of (relatively) understated Baroque. Restaurants, trattorias and bars abound and it is especially nice to sit out on the western side in the late afternoon, warmed by the sun and with a view over the lagoon.

 

 

 

TAORMINA (~100 miles from Ragusa)

 

 

Without any doubt it is the pearl of the Mediterranean. Idyllically perched on a rocky promontory high above the sea, Taormina has always been the most popular tourist destination in Sicily. Beautifully restored mediaeval buildings, breathtaking views around every corner and a giddy network of winding streets strewn with shops, bars and restaurants. 

TO SEE: The main attraction is, without doubt, the greek theatre. Now home to all kind of events, including plays, operas, fashion shows, concerts, and cinema festivals, this theatre as its name suggests, started its life in the 3rd Century BC hosting performances of the biggest names of the ancient Greek tragediography. The view from the theatre is spectacular, taking in a (usually) smoking Mount Etna (the volcano) and the beautiful bay of Naxos down below.

Another testimony of Taormina’s ancient origins is the roman theatre Odeon, just below Palazzo Corvaja, built by the Romans in 21BC.

A local sightseeing oddity here is Villa Comunale, sometimes called Parco Duca di Cesarò. It's one of the most beautiful little parks in all of Sicily, with gardens created by a Scottish lady, Lady Florence Trevelyan in the late 19th century.

Taormina is served by its very own cable car which brings tourists to and from the seaside resorts down along the coast. Extensive beaches, rocky coves, tiny islands (such as the famous Isola Bella) and sea stacks abound, making this city the most enchanting place in Sicily.

It's worth a trip to the nearby village of Castelmola, 2 miles northwest of Taormina. This is one of the most beautiful places in eastern Sicily, with a panoramic view of Mount Etna on clear days. You might also visit the ruined castello (castle) on the summit of Mount Tauro (1,280 ft). 

 

CATANIA (70 miles from Ragusa)

 

Catania is Sicily’s second largest city, with a population of around 300,000. It lies on the Ionian Sea, under the shadow of Mount Etna. Mount Etna is ever-present and has to a large extent shaped both the history and the actual existence of Catania. On several occasions volcanic eruptions destroyed the city, the most devastating of which happened in the 17th Century.

Visiting Catania is quite easy, as the old town centre is relatively small. An ideal starting point would be the main square, Piazza Duomo. Most of the town's tourist attractions are close by.

It is nice also moving out of the city to the seaside towns of Aci Castello and Aci Trezza, two pretty coast line Sicilian villages. Aci Castello boasts a rich production of citrus fruits, olives, grapes, almonds, cereals and amazing restaurants. His landscape is constituted by the castle the sea coast. Aci Trezza is a small but charming fishing village, with its small harbor full of fishing boats and typical fishing trattories. Both of them have a view to the Riviera of the Cyclops, so named for the rocks emerging from the sea which seem thrown by a giant.

The legend says that the giant was the blinded Polyphemus which throws the rocks against Odysseus on the run.

If you are travelling in East Sicily, you can’t possibly miss the opportunity of hiking mount Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe! Pack your trekking boots, bring plenty of water and don’t forget to put sunscreen on! If you’re lucky enough, you might even see the volcano erupt. Check this website for information of Etna’s eruptive activity.

 

OTHER SICILIAN BEAUTIES (a little bit more distant)

 

AGRIGENTO

   

 

One of Sicily’s most famous historical attractions is without a doubt the Valley of the Temples, just outside Agrigento. This splendid archaeological park consists of eight temples (and various other remains) built between about 510 BC and 430 BC: the Temple of Hera, the Temple of Concordia, the Temple of Heracles, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Temple of Castor and Pollux, the Temple of Hephaestos, the Temple of Demeter, and the Temple of Asclepius (the God of Medicine). Apart from this latter, which is to be found on the banks of the Akragas river, all are situated in the same area on rocky crests south of modern day Agrigento (not really in a Valley at all!)

If you go to Agrigento, stop by The Turkish Steps, a white staircase sculpted by erosion over the blues and greens of the Mediterranean. This is one of the most unique beaches in the world.

AEOLIAN ISLANDS (~130 miles by car from Ragusa + ferry)

Off the coast of Sicily, the Aeolian islands offer seas as clear as the Bahamas, landscapes worthy enough to be film sets and exceptional restaurants. Astonishingly beautiful and extremely varied, the seven islands and various uninhabited islets of the Aeolian archipelago were designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2000. Their volcanic origins left a dramatic legacy of black-sand beaches, smouldering craters and splintered, rocky coastlines.

The first island you reach is Vulcano, with its active, smouldering volcano and sulphurous stench. It's worth a day trip - and an easy hike - to see the volcano in action and wallow in the warm mud baths. 

Lipari is the largest and most populous of the seven islands. The joys of Lipari are best appreciated by boat. The island was for centuries the world centre for pumice production, and although the minig (now stopped) has left scars on the hillsides, it has also deposited the finest white pumice dust on the sea bed. The water off Spiaggia Bianca (White Beach) is as clear and as turquoise as in the Bahamas.

The last island on the eastern side is Stromboli. Stromboli is actually the most active volcano in Europe, and boasts frequent, spectacular eruptions. Lucky visitors might just get to see from the boat the Sciara del Fuoco, the lava flow that runs down into the sea. 

Panarea - just north-east of Salina - is a polished gem of an island. It's picture-perfect, with white villages garlanded in bright bougainvillaea, narrow lanes (there are no cars on the island, only golf carts and Motorino electric bikes), and one of the bet nightclubs in Italy.

PALERMO (regional capital of Sicily) 

Palermo’s history has been anything but stable as the town passed from one dominating power to another with remarkable frequency. Its strategic position in the middle of the Mediterranean brought wave after wave of invaders including the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracen Arabs, the Normans, the Swabians, the French and the Spanish Bourbons just to name the most influential. The result of this history is evident today in the vast range of architectural styles, the intriguing fusion of ingredients used in many local dishes and in many place names which are obviously not of Italian origin. 

TO SEE:

1. Old Town:

i. “Quattro Canti”, known as Piazza Vigliena, is a beautiful Baroque square, centre point of the four areas of the old town.

ii. San Giuseppe dei Teatini (church), located near Piazza Vigliena, and considered one of the most outstanding examples of sicilian baroque

iii. Piazza Pretoria, known as la Piazza della Vergogna (Square of Shame), for its splendid fountain with a collection of nude statues. Several other impressive buildings can be seen from this square including, on the right, Palazzo Senatorio (the City Hall).

iv. La Martorana. It is distinguished by an elegant Norman campanile, it dates from 1143 and is famed for its spectacular mosaics.

v. Piazza Bologna

2. The Norman Palace with the Palatine Chapel (A must!!!). This is the royal palace of Palermo, the seat of the kings of Sicily during the Norman domination and served afterwards as the main seat of power for the subsequent rulers of Sicily. Today it is the seat of the regional parliament of Sicily. Inside the palace you can find the Palatine Chapel, Probably the most visited monument in Palermo and should not be missed. Built in 1130, the same year in which King Roger II acceded to the throne of the Norman kingdom, the Cappella Palatina is a small, compact masterpiece characterized by a fusion of different architectural styles, most evidently the Byzantine mosaics and the wooden Arabic honeycombed ceiling.

3. Teatro Massimo, the second largest opera house in Europe after L’Opera in Paris

4. Piazza Politeama

5. The Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Europe. One of the most interesting things about this cathedral is the diversity of religions that have occupied this place at one time or another and left their mark. This Catholic Cathedral was built around a Muslim Mosque, which was built on a Byzantine Basilica.

6. San Giovanni degli Eremiti

7. The Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi

8. Botanical Garden

9. Ballaro`. Despite the fact Palermo has so much art and architecture to see, one of the things that turists enjoy the most are its markets. Ballaro` is the oldest and most authentic market in Palermo and the best for food. There are hundreds of stall selling everything you would think about food: fruits, vegetables, spices, bread, meat, fish, seller of local street food like sandwich with the spleen (pane ca meusa) that is supposed to be a must! (However i never dared to try it). The market is an explosion of colors, sound and voices as the sellers make sure to attract their potential customer calling out very loud their specialty. Be always aware of your surrounding, these areas are much likely be pick pocketing territory. 

TO EAT:

1. Seafood, Pane e panelle (Sicilian fritters made from gram flour), "pane ca meusa" (Sandwich with spleen), "sfincione" (typical Palermo pizza), arancini (GREAT!!!!).

2. Dessert: "setteveli" (chocolate cake with 7 different chocolate layers), cassata and cannoli (typical Sicilian dessert with ricotta cheese, you cannot go to Sicily without eating them)

CLOSE TO PALERMO 

 

Monreale (6 miles from Palermo)

TO SEE: the cathedral of Monreale is one of the greatest examples of Norman architecture in the world. It is is a national monument of Italy and one of the most important attractions of Sicily.

 

Cefalù (42 miles east from Palermo)

 

TO SEE: The city is characterized by a large rock (“La rocca”) which towers over the village. There you can see the archeological remains of a castle and two-tiered fortress that was used to defend the city during its sieges. You can hike up a whole load of steps to the peak of the rock for one incredible view. The stroll first touches the so-called Temple of Diana, the remains of a megalithic building from the 5th century BC, and when you reach the top, you can see the remains of a Byzantine castle. The scenic view from the Rocca is fully worth the effort to get there: the view spans the horizon from Capo d'Orlando to Palermo and, on a clear day, you can see the Aeolian Islands.

 

Santo Stefano di Camastra (65 miles east from Palermo) (very famous for italian ceramic)

 

Erice (71 miles west from Palermo) 

Towering over the west of Sicily at 2500 ft above sea level, Erice is a wonderfully preserved Mediaeval town offering the most breathtaking views and a palpable sense of history.

TO SEE: Among the most visited sites are the two castles, Pepoli Castle and Venus Castle. The first was built by the Arabs while the second was a Norman construction and takes its name from the fact that it was built on the site of the ancient Temple of Venus, allegedly founded by Aeneas. Other attractions include the sixty churches including the Gothic Chiesa Madre (1314) and the Mediaeval Church of Saint John the Baptist. The Mediaeval streets are a pleasure to wander around and the views are stunning.